RE: shocks for Jayco fiver 291 RLTS
Sorry it took so long... Here's the picture, the shocks go through the mount at the top, and through the hole in the u-bolt plate on the bottom.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3163/2955789930_15775861d6.jpg
RE: shocks for Jayco fiver 291 RLTS
Land Cruisers, would you happen to have any pics of the shocks installed? I have a new to me 2000 Jayco Eagle 325BHS and would love to install a set but I don't believe I have the mounts you have. Do they really help with the jerking? Thanks.
Mark - I really need to update my sig!!! Give me a few days and I'll try and take a couple pics, the trailets not in my driveway but its not too far away. And yes, I noticed a definite difference in jerking on bumpy roads.
RE: Slideout on Jayco Eagle Superlite
The large slide on our Eagle flexes a fair bit when it moves in, usually the top of the slide contacts the sidewall first then the bottom flexes a little as it pulls the bottom in tight to the sidewall. I think it's just the design, when it's all the way in, its tight to the sidewalls, and when it's out the seals are all tight, and when it's out, the slide area is rock solid, so it's not a concern for us.
RE: shocks for Jayco fiver 291 RLTS
Hey, Haynee2, I didn't notice you were from Sarnia when I did my other post. Stengel is cheap if you're in the States, but after shipping, brokerage, etc. the price climbs. I actually ordered mine in through the local PartSource store, and paid $41 each. They had to order them but I think they were in in two days. That was the cheapest place I could find after calling all over the place. The Dexter axle parts place in Mississauga wanted $74 each for the "Dexter" version, which is apparently identical.
RE: shocks for Jayco fiver 291 RLTS
I just put a set on my Jayco Eagle 325BHS. I called Dexter, and according to them they showed only one shock selection for all the frames they supply to Jayco. He provided a Dexter part number, which crossed with Monroe #555001. When I called my closest Dexter parts guy, he told me the Dexter shocks were the Monroe 555001's that just had the Dexter number on the box. If you plug that Monroe number into the Stengel Bros link above, you'll see they are $26 each. They fit perfectly into the mounts that were already on my frame near the wheels. They were pretty easy to install, too, took me maybe 30-45 mins for all 4. You just have to take a little bit of the weight off the trailer on each side, lift it maybe one or two inches with a jack just enough to get the shock in, you dont need to remove tires or anything. You might even be able to get them in just by tilting the trailer front to back using the landing gear, I thought of that after I was already done, just drop the front of the trailer down to get the back ones in, then lift the front all the way to get the fronts in. It's pretty simple and if you're at all handy it's not worth paying someone to do. And... It makes a big difference, I can leave stuff in the bunk area at the very back of my trailer and it's still exactly where I left it now, before the shocks it was bounced all over the place. Best $$ I've spent, they probably should be standard issue from the factory. I can even see the difference in the mirrors going over bumps, much less movement in the back, and jerking around you normally feel in the truck transmitted through the hitch seems to be reduced as well.
You didnt say what year your trailer was, but I think most of the newer ones already have the shock mounts on the top of the frame, and the hole in the u-bolt/spring mounting plate for the other end of the shock.
RE: The Eagle has landed!!
Congratulations, you'll love it. Our Eagle has been the first trailer we've owned where we havent been able to put together a list of fix-its for the dealer. We've spent probably 40 nights in it this season, and so far, everything is good. It's obvious to me the build quality is superior to thye other models I've owned.
One word of caution, check the pvc pipe fittings under the kitchen and bath sink drains, I found my bathroom p-trap drain hadn't been tightened at the factory and had come undone in transit, and my dealer hadnt caught it either. Not sure if it's a common mistake, but its easy to check and can be hand tightened to fix, so it can save a mini-flood into your lower cabinets the first time you use the sink.
RE: Partial Update - Forest River Stolen 5er
"Customer service is not totally dead, some companies really do care."
LOL besides Carriage, could you name two more please.
How about Jayco and KZ.
RE: Mount Prodidgy Brake Controller - 2006 Dodge 2500 CTD
On mine, right where your left kneecap would be there is a little square plastic insert plug that goes in the dash and covers one of the bolt heads for removing the lower dash panel. Not wanting to make permanent holes, and having had various adhesives not stick to the plastic, I removed the plug, attached the prodigy mount to the plug with a couple small bolts and nuts, and reinserted the plastic plug into the dash with a small amount of silicone to make sure it stays in place. Now, if I want to remove it down the road, I just need to pry out the plug, and get a replacement for a few dollars from the dealer, instead of having holes in the dash. I've had it in there for a good six months or so, with no problems, and it's very close to your left hand should you need to use it manually.
RE: RV Stolen From Forest River - help please
No way forest river will ever sell me an rv!!!!!
And you can add me to that list too. Customer service is everything, and I wouldnt go near one of their products after the way you were treated.
RE: Slide Topper...is it worth it?
We have them, and like most others the only down side is the huge amount of water pooling. I sometimes wonder if the weight of all that water sitting on the roof of the slide isnt a problem. I'm surprised that the slide awning manufacturers or some aftermarket company hasnt come up with a simpler solution to prevent it from happening.
RE: 2008 Jayco 23FB bugs
Check the P-Traps under all the sinks, they are all threaded compression fittings that are hand tightened, I found the one under my bathroom sink loose to the point that it had almost detached from the downpipe from the sink. Spoke to another new Jayco owner that I met at a campground, he checked his and found the same thing. The fix is as simple as pushing the fitting back up onto the down pipe and then hand tightening the fitting nice and tight. This will save you from having a cabinet full of the contents of your sink if it lets go. I've not found it loose again, so I suspect it was forgotten during assembly as opposed to working itself loose during travel.
RE: Fiberglass "blister" - UPDATED
Being in the middle of the wall like that and not close to a potential leak source you can almost assume it's delamination due to improper construction of the sandwiched core wall panels. And I'd be very concerned that other locations on the panels will do the same thing down the road. As others have said, the only proper fix is to have the whole wall replaced and hope you get better construction in the new one. Problem is, that means back to the factory and probably a very long wait without your trailer for repairs, especially since you're a very long way from the factory, assuming your trailer is built in Indiana. The dealer may try and cut the bubble out, and basically do an autobody type patch along with a blended repaint of the area, but in the right light you'll be able to see it, and since the rest of the wall isn't painted but rather fibreglass, I'm guessing that the paint and the surrounding fibreglass will age and oxidize at different rates and become more noticable as the trailer ages. If you had any way of backing out of the deal that would likely be my approach. The bubbles themselves are mainly cosmetic and won't really affect any structural strength, but they can continue to grow as more of the filon outer panel detaches from the foam core, and more can certainly develop anywhere the glue wasnt applied properly.
RE: Jayco 27.5 RKS
I'll add to the club, had our 2008 325BHS since April, have spent probably close to 8 weeks camping so far this season, and havent had anything go wrong at all yet which would require any kind of a trip to the dealer. This is our 4th RV that we've bought so far, and never had that kind of "luck" so far, you almost always expect a few little things to need repairs.
The only thing I had, was I noticed a couple small spots on the alloy wheels were losing their clear coat and starting to show signs of corrosion. I sent a couple of photos off to Jayco via the dealer, and, no questions asked, they drop shipped 4 brand new wheels to my home, along with an offer to pay the bill for switching over the tires at any local tire shop or dealer I chose to take it to, since our dealer is a couple hours away. Can't beat that. Good luck with your new Jayco, we love ours.
RE: Canadian Discounting on new fiver
We got our Jayco in Michigan for more than 40% off the US MSRP, which was even cheaper than the CDN MSRP. It's truly a buyer's market right now. We called around to a bunch of different Canadian dealers before going to the US, and none of them would even come with $10,000 of the price we paid in the States. We're close enough to the border that if anything major were to happen to the trailer and I had any issues with the warranty, I can take it back to the Michigan dealer if the Canadian dealers don't want to do it.
RE: Purchasing a new/used diesel
Got my 2006 Dodge 3500 SRW CTD, Mega Cab, 4X4, etc. with only 12k miles back in April for $25K. Didnt want the newer ones with all the new emissions gear, lower fuel mileage, etc. Really happy with it, pulls my 12,000lb 5th wheel like it wasnt there, right around 13 mpg at 55-60mph. With no trailer, keeping speeds around 60 mph or lower on the highway, I can do 22-24 mpg, which is phenomenal when you figure the size of it.
Oddly, I also pull a boat that weighs around 5,000lb, and has a much lower profile, etc. than the 5th wheel, and I really only gain about 1-2 mpg more with the boat than the 5th wheel. I thought being less than half the weight and wind resistance it would be better.
RE: Jayco
Yes, sad to say, having someone pick up the phone when you call to help you out after you've just spent many thousands of dollars on one of their products is almost unheard of. I absolutely agree with the poster who said to try out the customer service department before you buy. I had a very similar experience with the only time I've called Jayco, it wasn't really a problem, I was trying to trace some water lines to add an accumulator tank, and got immediate service, and someone scanned and emailed me all the technical blueprint drawings for my trailer within minutes of my inquiry. Wow.
RE: Jayco Eagle Super Lite
We started looking at the Super Lite's, but then ended up going with one of the regular Eagle's, since the fit and finish was a bit nicer, and when you considered the small price difference and what amounts to not a lot more weight it just seemed a better bang for the buck. If you have enough truck for a few extra pounds of trailer, it might be something for you to consider. But all told, very happy with our Jayco.
RE: Importing a Jayco 23 FB
I just imported the Jayco 325BHS fifth wheel in my signature. Your Jayco warranty will remain valid no matter where you purchase it, however what you may experience is having difficulties with local dealers who may either refuse to service your trailer, or cause lengthy delays considering that you didnt purchase it there. Jayco can't control individual dealers. In my particular case, it wasnt a problem, since the unit I purchased was a discontinued floorplan that the local dealer here in Ontario couldnt source when I gave them the chance to meet the US pricing. Since I had that discussion with them, they've indicated they will have no issue with doing the service on it and don't feel they were missing out on a sale since they couldnt get their hands on one to sell me. Jayco has also been really good, my only issue with the trailer has been a complaint about the alloy wheels prematurely corroding and the clear coat peeling off, I sent photos to the US dealer I bought from, they forwarded to Jayco, and Jayco drop shipped 4 new rims to my house, free of charge and offered to reimburse me for the cost of having them changed out at any garage I chose to take it to. I thought that was pretty reasonable.
Also, in terms of CSA standards, the local dealer explained it to me like this. If your unit doesnt have CSA standards, if the repair shop uses licenced electricians or gas fitters to repair either your 120 volt electrical system or the propane system or a propane appliance, the technician could technically refuse to work on it because of the lack of CSA standards as a condition of their professional licence, however he said that would be highly unlikely and he'd not heard of such a thing happening. He also added that quite a few manufacturers no longer offered CSA as an option, and the trailers for both US and Canadian markets are all the same. I suspect your insurance company wouldnt care, my insurance company is aware that I imported the trailer, but didnt ask about CSA. Luckily, my trailer has CSA standards since the US dealer bought up a bunch of that floorplan from Jayco at a good price when they discontinued it, and the ones he bought off the factory just happened to have been built with the CSA standard spec. Also, no one at the border or at the Canadian Tire inspection cared about CSA either.
One other thing... I'm not sure if there is such a thing as a CSA sticker anymore, if there is, mine doesnt have one. The CSA standards option is listed on the build sheet from the manufacturer along with the other options the trailer has, but nothing visible on the outside of the trailer would indicate that.
RE: Trailer Waxing Ideas
I have found the NuFinish goes on and off easy and does a nice job. It lasts quite well also.
Barney
If you do use NuFinish, do it in little bits... If the NuFinish sits for a long time (a day or more) it becomes progressively harder to remove. Just wax 6 or eight feet worth, give it 10-15 mins to dry, and then take it off right away.